Active Ingredients

Benefits of Retinoids:

• Gold standard for anti-ageing 
• Increase cell turnover, stimulates collagen & elastin production
• Reverse signs of ageing
• Reduce fine lines & wrinkles
• Improve Pigmentation, post-acne scaring, sunspots.
• Improve Acne by unclogging pores & regulating oil production .
• Strengthens skin barrier when used long-term

Types of Retinoids:

Retinoic Acid (Tretinoin, Adapalene, Tazarotene)

• Most potent - directly active and no conversion required.
• Only available on prescription.
• Fast results on wrinkles and acne, but often causes skin irritations, dryness and peeling
• Products available are:
• • Retin A (Tretinoin cream/gel → only on prescription)
  • Differen (Adapalene → only on prescription)

Retinaldehyde (Retinal)

• One step away from retinoic acid → stronger than Retinol → gentler than Tretinoin.
• Very effective, but irritates the skin.
• Available in in some advanced skincare ranges, however it still needs to convert from Retinal to Retinoic Acid → and then only binds to the skin. 

Retinol

• Needs two conversions to work - Retinol → Retinal → Retinoic Acid, then it can only bind to the skin receptors.
• Common in skincare, effective but less potent.
• Causes irritation at higher percentages

Retinyl Esters (Palmitate, Acetate, Propionate)

• Weakest form, needs multiple conversions to eventually bind to the skin receptors, in order to actually work.
• Best for beginners or very sensitive skins, it is very gentle, minimal irritation, but the results are also impaired in relation to other types.

New-Gen Derivatives 

(HPR, Granactive Retinoid, Retinyl Retinoate)

• Designed for stability, quick penetration & low irritation.
• 8x more stable than retinol
• Can bind directly with the skin receptor → start to work immediately!

Benefits of Vitamin C:

• Powerful Anti-oxidant- protect against free radical damage.
• Brightens skin- Improve Radiance.
• Great for Pigmentation.
• Boost Collagen Synthesis- firming.
• Stimulate production of natural moisturizing factors- allows the skin to better absorb moisture from the body / Keeps hydrated
• Significant improvement on skin Texture + overall Radiance

Types of Vitamin C:

L-Ascorbic Acid (LAA)

• Gold standard and most pure form, most researched form.
• Powerful anti-oxidant and strongest results for collagen formation & fades pigmentation.
• This molecule is unstable, can irritate sensitive skin.
• This molecule is directly active, penetrates the epidermis when formulated at correct pH, but oxidizes quickly.

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP)

• Stable, water-soluble, gentle.
• Antioxidant + antimicrobial → suitable for acne prone skin.
• Less potent collagen stimulator than LAA.
• Converts slowly to active LAA in the skin. 
• This molecule is milder with lower irritation risks.

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP)

• Very stable molecule, water-soluble with gentle brightening effect.
• Less effective for collagen stimulation than LAA, but often used in creams and lotions. 
• This molecule converts to active LAA gradually, ideal for sensitive skin or daily use.

Ascorbyl Glucoside (AA-2G)

• Vit C bound to glucose, but a very Stable molecule.
• Slow-releases active LAA molecule that is good for maintenance of the skin.
• Less potent, mild and steady, but good for daily and long-term use.

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THD / VC-IP)

• Oil-soluble molecule that penetrates deeper and very stable at lower concentrations between 2-7%
• Expensive and you will find this molecule in high end formulations.
• Potent anti-ageing, brightening and support collagen formation with low risks of irritation on the skin.

Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate (ATIP)

• Another Oil-soluble molecule, very stable and gentle. 
• Potent anti-ageing, brightening and support collagen formation with low risks of irritation on the skin.
• This molecule slowly converts in the skin, but is consistent results over time.
• Popular in professional high-end skincare.

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid (EAC)

• Modified LAA, Stable, water & oil-soluble.
• Good balance of potency, stability and tolerability → widely used in medical-grade serums.

Ascorbyl Palmitate

• Fat-soluble ester, more stable molecule, but the weakest form of Vit C
• Gentle and often used in creams as supplemental anti-oxidant.
• Less brightening effect & Collagen boosting properties.

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Benefits of Peptides:

• Signal Fibroblast to produce more Collagen & Elastin production.
• Improve Firmness and Reduce fine lines. 
• Improve skin healing and skin repair.
• Strenthen the skin barrier.
• Calm inflammation and support hydration.

Types of Peptides:

Signal Peptides

• Signaling peptides Stimulate collagen, elastin & skin the skins matrix.
• This peptides Improve firmness, fine lines and skin texture.
• Examples: Matrixyl®, Matrixyl® 3000, Epitensive™.
• Mechanism: These peptides bind to the skin receptors and increase fibroblast extracellular matrix synthesis which deliver firmer, smoother skin over time

Carrier Peptides

• Carrier peptides transport essential trace minerals like copper into the skin that is needed for collagen synthesis and repair/ wound healing.
• Support elasticity, healing & resilience.
• Example: Copper Tripeptide-1 (GHK-Cu). 

Neurotransmitter-Inhibiting Peptides

• “Botox-like” peptides that relax facial micro-contractions and softens expression lines.
• It blocks acetylcholine release at neuromuscular junctions and reduce muscle contractions for smoother lines
• Examples: Argireline®, Syn®-Ake.

Enzyme-Inhibiting Peptides

• These peptides prevent collagen & elastin breakdown. by inhibiting matrix metalloproteinases (MMP's).
• It help preserve firmness, structure and skin architecture by protecting the extracellular matrix.
• Examples: Soy & rice peptides.

Antimicrobial / Barrier Peptides

• These peptides mimic the skin’s natural defense system, protect microbiome and aid wound healing.
• It also strenthens the barrier and prevent infections.
• These peptides emerging in medical grade skincare and are often used in post-procedure or barrier support products.Most potent, works directly, only available with a prescription.

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Benefits of Growth Factors:

• Mimic the body's natural signaling molecules to Stimulate Fibroblast activity and Wound Healing pathways.
• Promote Rejuvenation & Skin Repair at cellular level.
• Stimulate fibroblast for collagen, elastin & Hyaluronic acid production.
• Improve skin thickness, firmness and resillience.
• Improve the appearance of wrinkles and scars.

Types of Growth Factors:

Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF)

• EGF Stimulates skin repair, hydration & collagen by stimulating kerarinocytes and fibroblast cells. 
• It binds to the EGF receptors on keratinocytes/fibroblasts, activates cell division and matricx production for faster healing and stronger skin barrier.
• Most commonly found in skincare.
• Example: Epitensive™ (bioengineered EGF-mimicking peptide).

Fibroblast Growth Factors (FGFs)

• FGF's directly stimulates the fibroblasts to produce collagen, elastin & HA.
• It is Key for dermal rejuvenation, Improve firmness and elasticity and leave the skin plumpy.
• Often found in post-precedure healing products.

Transforming Growth Factor (TGF-β)

• TGF's function is to regulate collagen synthesis and regulates extracellular matrix remodeling.
• It Improves firmness and reduce wrinkle by strenthening the dermal structure.

Vascular Endothelial Growth Factor (VEGF)

• VEGF's Stimulates angiogenesis (new capillaries formation) and improve better oxygen & nutrient delivery
• It Supports healing and skin vitality.

Platelet-Derived Growth Factor (PDGF)

• PDGF's Promotes wound healing, angiogenesis & tissue repair. 
• It accelerates recovery after injury or aesthetic procedures.
• Naturally present in PRP (platelet-rich plasma).

Insulin-like Growth Factor (IGF-1)

• IGF-1 Supports cell growth, tissue repair and differentiation and is more relevant for healing than anti-ageing.
• It enhances cell turnover on a damaged skin.

Benefits of Hyaluronic (HA):

• Hydrates / Powerfull humectant that holds up to 1000x its weight in water.
• Key molecule improving Elasticity by stimulating pro-collagen type I - firming properties - improve suppleness.
• Plumping, Improve Texture + smooths the skin.
• Excellent moisturizing properties.

Types of Hyaluronic Acid (HA):

High Molecular Weight HA

• Responsible for Surface hydration with a larger molecule.
• The benefits are calming & smoothing with reduced irritation on the skin beacuse it creates a water-rich film on the stratum corneum.

Low Molecular Weight HA 

• A smaller size molecule which penetrate into the epidermis for Deeper hydration, elasticity and anti-ageing with longer lasting plumpness and bounce in the skin.

Oligo / Ultra-Low Molecular Weight HA 

• Very small fragments that can reach the Dermis and stimulates the fibroblasts cells, boosts collagen/HA and has strong anti-ageing effects. 
• At high levels, it may cause skin irritation due to inflammatory signaling.

Sodium Hyaluronate 

• The most common form in skincare,its more stable & affordable and effective in multiple weights.

Cross-Linked HA forms a “3D network”for slow-release, long-lasting hydration.

Hydrolyzed HA:

• It is HA broken down in smaller fragments for better penetration, less film-forming. 
• Smaller fragments penetrate into the upper epidermis, increase hydration balance inside out.

Acetylated HA:

• It is a modified form with better &  stronger adhesion for lasting comfort,long-lasting hydration and ideal for dry/sensitive skin types.

HA Precursors (e.g., NAG)  

• NAG is not HA itself, but stimulate skin’s own HA production. 
• This is responsible for long-term anti-ageing effects and barrier repair.

Benefits of Niacinamide (Vit B3):

• Strenthens skin barrier by boosting ceramide production.
• Provide anti-oxidants & reduces inflammation - redness & sensitivity.
• Improve uneven skin tone. 
• Enhances tolerance of stronger actives like retinoids.
• Minimize pores, regulate sebum production - support acne and refine enlarged pores.

Recommended Strengths:

• 2% → Sensitive skin, hydration, redness.
• 4–5% → Oil control, acne, pore appearance.
• 5% → Brightening, pigmentation, post-acne marks.
• 10% → Stronger results for texture & pigmentation (higher irritation risk).
• >10% → No added benefit, may cause flushing.

Benefits of Ceramides:

• Reinforce the skin barrier, locking in moisture and preventing transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
• Restore and replenish essential lipids in dry, sensitive, or compromised skin.
• Improve hydration and plumpness by sealing in water.
• Reduce irritation, sensitivity, redness and inflammation.
• Support recovery after aesthetic treatments such as peels, microneedling, or laser.
• Enhance performance of other actives (retinoids, exfoliants) by creating a balanced environment.
• Assist in managing eczema, dermatitis and barrier-compromised conditions.
• Provide long-term anti-ageing support by protecting against environmental damage.

Recommended Strengths:

• Ceramides are typically used in concentrations between 0.5% and 5% in cosmetic and dermatological formulations, depending on the product type and the combination with other barrier lipids (cholesterol, fatty acids).
• Because ceramides are structural lipids, their effectiveness relies not only on concentration but also on the ratio and balance between different ceramide types and complementary lipids.